Uzbekistan’s tradition of silk production has been a hallmark of its cultural and economic landscape for millennia, with deep roots tracing back to the ancient Silk Road.
Today, Uzbekistan is known not only for its luxurious, high-quality silks, but also for the intricate weaving and dyeing techniques that bring these textiles to life.
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From the intricate patterns of khan-atlas to the bold designs of adras, the country’s silk tradition has evolved into an exquisite art form, sought after by travellers and fashion connoisseurs the world over.
Join us as we unravel the historic secrets of the traditional national fabric, learning of the process and artistry of silk production as it has been passed down through the generations, to become a cultural and economic cornerstone that continues to captivate visitors with its beauty.
A Silk Road legacy: the history of silk in Uzbekistan
Silk has been woven into the fabric of Uzbekistan’s history since the days of the Silk Road. This famous trade route served to connect East and West from around 114 BCE to the mid-15th century when caravans laden with the precious material traversed the region.
Silk and silk products were first developed in China and it wasn’t long before the fertile and strategically located nation of Uzbekistan became a centre for both the cultivation of silkworms and mulberry trees (the key food source for silk-producing silkworms), with cities growing wealthy in the development of local silk products.
Cities such as Margilan in the Fergana Valley quickly became renowned for producing some of the finest silk fabrics in the world. At one point, Margilan silk was literally worth its weight in gold and used as a means of payment upon the Silk Road.
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To this day, Margilan remains a major centre for silk production, with workshops preserving traditional techniques including khan-atlas and adras, styles that date back more than 2,000 years. The international silk festival known as “Atlas Bayrami” is held annually in Margilan.
The process: from cocoon to fabric
The production of silk in Uzbekistan is a highly skilled and time-consuming process. Around two thousand caterpillars are needed to create one silk dress, fed on the leaves of almost two mulberry trees.
When the leaves are harvested and the silkworms fed, the larvae begin the laborious task of spinning cocoons. Once complete, the humans take over, carefully boiling the cocoons to extract the silk fibres.
After this extraction process, the silk threads are spun and dyed using natural ingredients such as pomegranate skins, indigo, saffron and walnut shells, giving the fabric its vibrant, distinctive colours. Weavers then work these threads into intricately patterned textiles, with the most famous being the colourful khan-atlas (a ‘royal silk’ pattern with a distinctive glossy finish), used for everything from clothing to decorative items.
Adras, a half-cotton, half-silk fabric is another popular product, known for its strength, bold colours and good value, making silk products widely accessible. The traditional practices of making atlas and adras – among satin, cotton and velvet – fabrics are preserved within the Margilan Craft Center, a site listed by UNESCO for its Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2017.
Margilan: the heart of Uzbek silk
For travellers eager to experience silk production firsthand, a visit to Margilan is essential. This ancient city in the Fergana Valley is home to some of the most renowned silk workshops in the country, where artisans continue to use time-honoured techniques to create exquisite fabrics.
The Yodgorlik Silk Factory, one of Margilan’s most famous, offers guided tours that take visitors through each stage of the silk-making process—from the nurturing of silkworms to the weaving of eye-catching patterns.
What makes Margilan’s silk particularly unique is the region’s commitment to sustainability and craftsmanship. Many workshops here still use natural dyes and hand-looming techniques, ensuring that each piece of fabric is as environmentally conscious as it is beautiful.
The art of ikat: a timeless tradition
One of the most celebrated silk-weaving techniques in Uzbekistan is ikat, a method that involves dyeing the silk threads before they are woven into fabric. The resulting textiles are known for their bold, blurred patterns, which are highly sought after both within Uzbekistan and internationally.
The ikat process is painstakingly detailed, often taking weeks or even months to complete a single piece of fabric. Craftsmen in Margilan and other silk-producing regions still follow the same techniques their ancestors used, honouring a tradition that has been passed down through generations.
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The resurgence of silk in modern Uzbekistan
While silk production in Uzbekistan is rooted in tradition, in recent years the craft has experienced a resurgence, thanks in part to growing global demand for high-quality, sustainable textiles.
This renewed interest in Uzbek silk has helped revitalise rural communities, providing jobs and supporting the local economy. It has also spurred innovation, with contemporary designers including Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Oscar de la Renta incorporating traditional Uzbek fabrics into their designs.
Beyond fashion, Uzbekistan’s silk is finding new uses in interior design, adorning everything from luxurious drapes to bespoke cushions. Each piece is a testament to the skill and dedication of the artisans who have kept this ancient craft alive.
Experiencing Uzbek silk firsthand
Visitors to Uzbekistan can immerse themselves in the world of Uzbekistan’s silk heritage at dedicated institutions such as the Museum of Applied Arts in Tashkent and the Tim-Abdullakhan Silk Centre in Bukhara.
Meanwhile, silk centres such as Margilan, Samarkand, Bukhara and beyond allow visitors to get involved in the silk weaving process, with cultural performances, guided tours and workshops that highlight the importance of silk in Uzbek society.
For those looking to bring a piece of Uzbekistan home, local markets offer a stunning array of silk products, from handwoven silk garments to decorative home textiles made with weaving styles such as adras, khan, ikat and suzani (geometric silk embroidery). These markets are great places to support local artisans and sustainable craftsmanship, with Bukhara home to a number of domed trading bazaars operating since the 16th century.
